Our facial skin needs constant care as flawless glowing skin is a crucial component of our charm and more importantly, it can boost our self-confidence. Ayurveda, the holistic healing science, offers scores of solutions for all skin types.

Ayurveda’s concept of beauty is founded on a holistic approach. Only when the body and the mind remain healthy does one’s Ojus (vitality) emanate the force needed to keep the inner as well as the outer selves radiant.

According to Ayurveda, the skin has seven layers that are derived from raktha dhathu (blood) – avabhasini, lohitha, swetha, thamra, vedini, rohini and mamsadhara. It elaborates the diseases that can affect each of these layers and the treatment procedures. The humour (dosha) predominant in skin is Pitha, specifically bhrajaka pitha. Aggravation of doshas can cause skin problems – Vata dosha can cause cracks on the skin, and pimples/acne may erupt due to Kapha dosha.

Acharya Sarngadhara talks about varnya lepam, a paste for improving skin complexion. Applying mukha lepa (face pack) is one of the best ways to moisturize and nourish the skin. The combinations of the ingredients vary depending on the skin condition.

The ingredients in face pack can detoxify and supply micro-elements that help in removing wrinkles and softening the skin. They penetrate deep, cleanse the skin and remove dead cells.

Lepa should be applied with gentle upward strokes to make its action quick and more effectively. Its thickness should be one angulam (approximately the thickness of the person’s thumb). It enters the body through roma koopam (hair roots) and gets absorbed through swedovaha srothas (sweat pores). Oil or ghee should be added to the pastes in ¼, 1/6, and 1/8 parts for Vata, Pitha and Kapha respectively.

Treatments like abhyanga (oil massage) and udwarthana (powder massage) are highly effective against premature ageing and help in improving complexion.

Tips

n  A spoonful of lime juice with half teaspoon of honey and a few drops of milk is good for oily skin.

n  Apply one teaspoon turmeric powder mixed with sandal powder, gram flour and honey one hour before bath for keeping the face fresh and soft.

n  For pigmentation and acne, use powders of Red Sandal, Rubia Cordifolia, Symplocus Cochinchinensis, Sassurea lappa and Callicarpa macrophylla.

n  A paste made of Shashtika Sali (a variety of rice harvested in 60 days) cooked in cow’s milk, sandal powder, badam paste, turmeric and a little of Mentha arvensils acts as a good rejuvenator.

n  A face pack is effective only until it is moist. Hence wash off once it gets dry. Otherwise it will harm the skin.

Herbs for good complexion and reducing black marks

Sanskrit Name                 Botanical Name

Sthoola elam                   Amomum sabulatum

Kushtam                         Sassura lappa

Jadamamsi                     Nardostachys jadamansi

Thwak                             Cinnamomum tamala

Jathiphalam                    Myristica fragrans

Naaga                              Messua nagassarium

Devadaaram                   Cedrus deodara

Sookshma elam             Elettaria cardamomum

Priyangu                          Callicarpa macrophylla

Hreeveram                      Coleus vativeroides

Shati                                 Kaempferia galangal

Punnagam                      Calophyllum inophyllum

Vyaakhranakha              Ipomoea pes-tigridis

Kumkumam                    Crocus sativus

FOR OILY SKIN

Chandanam                   Santalum album

Lodhram                         Symplocus Cochinchinensis

Vacha                              Acorus calamus

Rakthachandanam       Pterocarpus santalinus

Dhanyakam                    Coreandrum sativum

Manjishta                       Rubia cordifola

(Powders of all these or a few are to be made into a paste with cucumber juice or orange juice)

FOR DRY SKIN

Devadaaram             Cedrus deodara

Chandanam               Santalum album

Laksha                         Lac

Agaru                          Aquilleria agalocha

Usheram                    Vetiveria zizanoides

(Powders of all these or a few should be made into a paste with aloe vera juice or egg white)

(The author is Dr Rakhi S J, Nagarjuna Ayurvedic Centre, Kalady)